Quick equipment question

[ErikB]

Hi everybody, I have a quick question about soldering tools. Today during a recording session at school I told my audio professor about the SCA kits and my desire to build a few and learn more about electronics in audio. He mentioned something about a ColdHeat soldering iron, which I just did a google search on. It seems like a very nice product, but would it be acceptable for use on these types of kits? I was planning on getting a soldering station from RadioShack next week and starting a paia project to get some experience under my belt. If this ColdHeat soldering tool is capable of the precision needed for these kits, I'll go ahead and get one. Any other recommendations for a good soldering station if it's not worth buying? Thank you very much.

--edit--
Sorry, I forgot to mention that the other station I was looking at is a Weller WLC100. I figure this will probably be the best way to go, but I've not heard much about the ColdHeat.

[tele_player]

From what I've read, they're handy for quick repair jobs, but the tips break easily.

There's a Weller soldering station for about $40 that works real well, I've used one for years.

[ErikB]

Thanks tele. I have a soldering iron, but it's been sitting in the garage for so many years that it's corroded and filthy. The last time I've soldered something was back in my highschool paintball days when I wired a comm radio to the inside of some face masks.

We might be talking about the same Weller. The station I'm looking at is variable 5-40W and cost around $40, plus a little more for another tip. Should I get a conical, screwdriver, or flat tip (tip size is .79mm for all)?

[tele_player]

Yes, the WLC-100 is what I use, I've had mine for years.

I'd get a small conical and screwdriver (St1 and ST2), and try both. Use whichever feels comfortable. A small conical tip is handy for some of the really close pins on the gain switch, but I personally use the ST2 for everything.

[ErikB]

Well, I just put in a nearly $200 order for new equipement and supplies. I need a drink...

[ErikB]

All supplies should be in tomorrow so I can start practicing! Any suggestion on solder wire gauge? I figured the .025 63/37 would be alright, but if I should get something different I will.

Also, know of any plans for a diy passive DI box?

[tele_player]

The solder sounds about right.

On the direct box, it's a really simple project.
http://www.jensen-transformers.com/as/as007.pdf

I'd probably start with a $35 Groove Tubes or Whirlwind DI, and upgrade to the Jensen transformer. But it's $65, and the GT direct box works great as is.

[ErikB]

Two more questions and I should be set for a while: On the Weller soldering station, what do the numbers on the dial correspond to? I've read through the documentation, checked the box, etc., and can't seem to find what power level or temperature the numbers represent. Also, when I place resistors on a board and splay out the leads, do I trim the leads before or after soldering? Thanks again...I can't wait to get started.

[tele_player]

The numbers aren't marked in actual temperatures, but for this kind of work, it doesn't matter. I use it at about 75-100%.

A handy little gadget to have is called a 'lead bender', it makes is easy to bend the leads on resistors, and some capacitors, at exactly the correct spacing for the holes on the board. Costs about $5, and makes your board look very neat.

I insert the components, slightly bend the leads so components don't fall out when board is inverted, solder, then clip. Some people populate the entire board first, then turn it over and do all the soldering. I'll put in 10-20 parts at a time, solder, clip, repeat till done. Though you could clip them first, clipping after soldering helps insure you don't forget to solder any parts.

I also measure all resistors as I'm inserting them, compare them to the schematic and parts list. Caps, too, where they are within the range for my meter. I've never found a part that was out of spec, but the extra attention keeps me from putting something in the wrong place.

[ErikB]

Any suggestion on multimeters? I was thinking about getting the RadioShack 42-range digital meter, but if there is something better in that price range I'll get it.

--edit--
Another unrelated question: A project I'm working on now calls for some caps rated at 33uF and 16V, but I have caps rated at 33uF and 35V. Is it ok to use the 35V caps?