Stupid question... re: molex

[owel]

I have the molex connectors but how do I "put" the wires in place?

I understand I need to have a Molex crimp tool for this? Do I need to buy the "connectors" where the wires will be crimped by the tool?

Sorry if my questions don't make sense... I haven't worked with Molex connectors before.

Can somebody recommend to me the right "molex crimp tool" ? There's so many choices and I really don't know which one I need.

[CH]

You can buy the female connector contacts at digikey: WM2300-ND

Last I checked the inexpensive Molex hand crimp tool has been discontinued, I bought one of the few remaining ones from newark--but then soon found the SAME crimp tool (yes MOLEX Brand!) at Radio Shack for almost half the price! Go figure!

I tried emailing Tim about the power connector wiring, I'm not quite happy with the way two 20AWG wires have to be crimped into one connector. No matter how meticulous you get with it it eventually creates a tiny snag exposing bare wire. I'm about finished with 8 N72s and having a dilema as to whether I'm going to keep the molex scheme or just solder in the wires and insulate--the downfall of this being if I ever have to take a card out I would have to desolder. MY optimal solution would be to find screw terminal blocks that fit the molex profile--so far no success...

Any Suggestions Tim

[owel]

Thanks for the reply... When I buy the crimp tool at Radio Shack, do I just say "I need a Molex crimp tool?" Aren't there different sizes, types?

>two 20AWG wires have to be crimped into one connector.

You mean, to daisy chain multiple N72s?...

I haven't started assembling my N72 yet, but I'm 99% done with the power supply. I just need to do the jumper thingy for the 110V selection, and testing.

So, how do you like the N72s? Is it a big "difference" from say an ART preamp, or a Mackie preamp?

[CH]

I would say look around for the crimp tool instead of asking first. It's black with red handles. If they have it you can't miss it. The crimp tool accommodates 4-5 different sizes (not sure right now as I'm away from my bench).

Yes I mean when you're daisy chaining them.

<<So, how do you like the N72s? Is it a big "difference" from say an ART preamp, or a Mackie preamp?>>

Well, I'm a bit spoiled in that I've worked on Neve VR 70(not 1272s but still in the same family of "Neve Sound") series consoles and vintage API consoles with FADEX tape automation (a really really terrible invention--although they thought it was great at the time.) I'm just a little new to the DIY school, but 8 preamps later I look back at my first N72 and think "oh my that looks disgusting" almost makes me want to bury it someplace where no one will find it since my work is so much better now in comparison.

As far as sound... Well you just can't compare it to a Wackie or fArt. If you haven't heard a Neve yet, you'll love it.
Good Luck!

[owel]

I couldn't wait, so I just used a long-nose pliers to crimp the wires this evening. I finally finished the power supply, powered up and it was uneventful...no smoke or fireworks. 47.9V and 24.3V are my readings.

As far as sound... Well you just can't compare it to a Wackie or fArt. If you haven't heard a Neve yet, you'll love it.
Good Luck!

Hahaha... I have friends that use Behringers in their home studio and we Mackie-users "look down" upon them. I guess there's always one higher than you in the pecking order.

One of the reasons I'm building the N72 is because I can't afford those expensive preamps costing $1,500 and above. I am antsy about finishing this project and hearing it. I can't wait. Thanks for the help.

> Daisy-chaining

I have an idea for you... create a PCB "bus" with 8 sets of connectors, all wired in parallel. You probably can even use a proto-board for this. Then you plug each N72's power connector into one of the 8 molex on the PCB bus . That way, you avoid daisy-chaining them, and you still retain the flexibility of unhooking it easily.

[tpryan]

The MOLEX connectors have three parts. The header, which solders to the board, the contacts, which are crimped to the wires, and the housing, which holds the contacts. To make a proper crimp connection, you really should have the proper tool, but you can use a pair of large needle nose pliers as well. First, strip about 1/8" of insulation from the wire. That's right, only 1/8" of an inch. Notice that the tabs on the terminal are divided roughly in half. Making the crimp is a two-step process. First crimp the "front" tabs around the bare wire, then the "rear" tabs around the insulation. Line up the front tabs in the jaws of the tool, and place the wire in the contact. Crimp the front tabs firmly around the bare wire, then crimp the rear tabs around the insulation. Don't crimp the rear tabs too hard, just enough to grip the insulation. When you're done, the contact should be permanently attached to the wire. If you don't have a crimp tool, you'll probably need to solder the terminal to make a permanent connection.

Daisy chaining connectors is easy. Just align two wires in the terminal, and crimp them simultaneously. I've had no difficulty fitting two wires into a single contact, though the insulation gripping tabs don't always get the whole way around both wires. Again, if you're in doubt about the strength of the connection, solder it. If you want to dress up the connector, add heat shrink to the terminals, though I've found this to be an unnecessary step. If you're using a CH01 chassis, use 2 3/4" of wire between the connectors.

-Tim