Newb questions: various ?'s before I start soldering the C84

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Newb questions: various ?'s before I start soldering the C84

Postby canderson » Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:08 am

Long time lurker first time poster.

Have been practicing on some Radio Shack PCB boards before beginning on the C84.

1. At what temperature do you feel it is ideal to solder at, given the size of the various components of these kits ?

800 seemed to hot as the iron was looking haggard in short order. 725 seemed about right. Is there any good reasons to solder at a lower temperature?

2. K I'm really embarrassed to even ask this one but...which side of the PCB board should one be doing the soldering upon?

When I look at the pictures of completed boards it looks like the various module boards have been soldered on the side where the numbers appear. BUT...various instructions I have pulled off the internet instruct to solder from the opposite side that the various pieces to be soldered are resting upon. So, I'm confused. Does the solder just run down into and around the lead from soldering on the opposite side?

3. How often do you clean and / or re-tin your soldering tip? After each and every joint? Every 5?

I'm eager to get started but really want to get solid on a practice board before I begin on the C84.

All the Best,

Chris Anderson
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Postby tpryan » Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:53 am

1. At what temperature do you feel it is ideal to solder at, given the size of the various components of these kits ?


700 degrees F is about right.

2. K I'm really embarrassed to even ask this one but...which side of the PCB board should one be doing the soldering upon?


Insert the components from the top (silk-screened) side and flip the board over onto your work surface and solder from the bottom. If you stuff the board in the order described in the instructions, you should have no problems with parts falling out of the holes. Solder all the components so they're as flush with the board as possible. You don't want resistors sticking up in the air. It's also highly recommended you use a lead bender to prep the resistor leads. You will get much better results than bending them by hand.

Does the solder just run down into and around the lead from soldering on the opposite side?


On a board with a plated-through holes, yes.

3. How often do you clean and / or re-tin your soldering tip? After each and every joint? Every 5?


Clean the tip after every two or three joints, or whenever you notice something on the tip that looks like it shouldn't be there. If you're using a temperature controlled iron with a plated tip you should never re-tin it. Just replace it when the plating degrades too far.

I'm eager to get started but really want to get solid on a practice board before I begin on the C84.


An excellent idea. Practice makes perfect.
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Iron: Hakko 936 / Tip: 900 M-T-B

Postby canderson » Sat Jul 14, 2007 9:57 am

Thanks for answering my questions Tim, it is much appreciated.

If you're using a temperature controlled iron with a plated tip you should never re-tin it. Just replace it when the plating degrades too far.


Again my ignorance is coming up against my lack of experience. I'm using a Hakko 936 with a 900 M-T-B tip. I can't remember whether the Hakko 900 M-T-B was a plated tip or not.

Is this one of those iron/tip combinations that does not require re-tinning?

All the Best,

chris anderson
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Postby tpryan » Sat Jul 14, 2007 6:04 pm

Is this one of those iron/tip combinations that does not require re-tinning?


Yes. When the plating is completely eroded you can get some extra life out of the tip by filing it and re-tinning, but it will last for years with occasional hobbyist-level use.
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