Seventh Circle Audio

hey i was building my 2nd A12 and with the new instructions it says to align the led with the silkscreen.So i checked my first A12 and sure enough it was backwards,now the led is off the board has no more leads to try again. I know i can order 1 from digi key but my problem is there is still bits of lead in the holes and nothing im trying is working to get them out does anyone ahve any suggestions?? any tools that will work i have like nothing to grip onto to try to melt the solder and pull it out.helpppppp and is the led truely needed?? or can i get away with out having it

You can get a solder vacuum for about 7 bucks at radio shack. It should suck the solder/lead out enough that you can at least grab the lead with some pliers. Hold heat on one side of the board and suck from the other.

You can also likely get a replacement led there.

i have one of those de soldering irons and soldering braid nothing is working are those vacuums different? mine is a soldering iron with a buld like you would bast a turkey with

mine is a soldering iron with a buld BULB i mean

which one of these is the correct specs both from radioshack

Typical MCD is 10. Typical wavelength is 700mm. Size is T1 3/4 or 5mm. Red lens color. Viewing angle is 30°. Current is 28mA (max). Typical Voltage is 2.25, with a maximum voltage of 2.6V. Comes as package of 2.


or this one
Wavelength: 660mm (typ.), Type: T-1-3/4 (5mm), Lens Color: Red, Viewing Angle: 40°, If mA: 20 (max.), Vf: 1.8 (volts typ.), Vf: 2.4 (volts max.)

also those vacums are different then what i have i guess ill have to give that a shot i would hate to ahve to send it in for a 15 second repair

This diode is being used as a voltage reference, so I'd replace it with the same part.

What's stuck in the hole? Solder, or the wire from the LED? I'd heat the hole, and use the new part to push out whatever's in the way. Carefully.

yes i want to replace it with same one. The 2 led's i listed where the 2 5mm ones radio shack has. The digi key place does not give much info so was hoping somone could tell me whcih one of these 2 would be the way to go

and its the broken off pieces of the led that are in the holes

I'd use either one. The bottom line is 'can R19 properly zero the voltage at U1 4-6?'. If it does, you're OK. I suspect this will work with almost any common red LED.

SUCCESSSSSSSS i got the extra leads out i used a sweing pin to push the sodler out afte ri heated it up it i did lift the pad on 1 side though i hope this is nbot a big issue

Lifting the pad, while unfortunate, isn't so bad if it didn't also lift a trace with it. After soldering it back up, use your ohmmeter to check that it's got continuity to all the correct parts, as described in the schematic.

what if we dont read schematics

Well, I'd say it's time to learn. It's incredibly easy to tell what gets connected where from the schematic, easier than reading a road map.