Seventh Circle Audio

Okey doke.... so.... for the stepped gain knob.... do I have to put the stop pin in it like on the N72, and if so where do I put it... I didn't see anything in the instructions about it....

It seems like the 1500uF 50v caps from digi-key are forever on backorder and there's two options... the 1800uF 50v and the 1500uF 63v... which one is a better substitute?

And last but not least..... the mill-max receptacles for the op-amp... is it absolutely necessary that I solder them onto the board... they seem pretty snug the way it is? Reason being... it seems that if I solder them there's no place for the solder to go, ie. the snug fit.

Thanks!
~Joe

Assuming these parts fit correctly on the board, I'd go for the 1500uf 63v. That will behave the same as the 50v part. The 1800uf will have a larger charging current during startup; probably OK, but the 1500 part is what the system is designed for.

Yes, you must solder the sockets in place. Solder will flow as needed.

Thanks for the info tele.

Anyone have any idea about the input rotary switch? Tim?

Thanks,
Joe

The stop on the rotary switch goes in the same place as on the N72.

yeah... i almost figured that out myself.... haha.... just making sure though... thanks again tele!

tele_player \$m[1]:Solder will flow as needed.

So does that mean if solder does not flow to the front of the board, it is not needed on the front of the board? Solder will not go to the front of the board for me, and I'm wondering if I need to solder the front side of the board separately. I would assume so if Tim hadn't made a point to say "solder these pins from the back." in the assembly instructions.

If the solder doesn't flow around to the front, it's OK. I'd touch it up from the front also, but it's easy to knock them loose when you solder them.

This isn't a critical detail.

Thanks!

I Agree wth Teleplayer. Since the holes are plated through there is continuity from the front to the back anyway.

Also, if youw ant the holes to solder through try this. Since the traces take longer to heat up than the components (which get up to temp almost instantly) you can apply heat to the trace first, and once the solder flows onto the trace then apply heat to the component. I used this technique on my last 4 modules and the solder flowed through every time, and I got perfect joints every time.

Again, it's not critical, but it looks nicer and makes you feel warm & fuzzy.

Shane

I'd stick with the normal technique of applying heat to both parts simultaneously; the pads and plated holes heat instantly.

I tend to run my iron pretty hot, and work real quickly...